Chur -- Switzerland's Oldest City and the Gateway to Graubunden

TL;DR: Chur (Romansh: Cuira) is the oldest city in Switzerland, with over 5'000 years of continuous settlement, and serves as the capital of Graubunden -- the country's largest and most mountainous canton. It is the starting point for the Glacier Express to Zermatt and the Bernina Express to Tirano, and its car-free Old Town, with a 12th-century cathedral and lively cafe culture, makes it far more than a transit stop. Zurich to Chur takes just 1 hour 15 minutes by direct train.

Quick Facts

Top 5 Things to Do in Chur

1. Explore the car-free Old Town (Altstadt)

Chur's Altstadt is one of the most charming and atmospheric car-free old towns in Switzerland. Narrow medieval lanes, Renaissance fountains, painted facades, independent boutiques, and open-air cafes fill the compact historic core between the Obertor (upper gate) and the modern Postplatz. The Old Town is remarkably well preserved and lively -- locals shop, dine, and socialize here daily, making it feel authentic rather than museal. Free to explore at any time. Allow 1--2 hours for a thorough walk. Starting point: Postplatz or Obertor (GPS: 46.8500, 9.5325).

2. Visit the Cathedral of the Assumption (Kathedrale)

The Chur Cathedral (Kathedrale Mariae Himmelfahrt), built between 1150 and 1272, is the seat of the Bishop of Chur -- one of the oldest dioceses north of the Alps, established around 451 AD. The Romanesque and Gothic cathedral contains the largest late-Gothic triptych altarpiece in Switzerland (by Jakob Russ, 1492), Carolingian-era crypt remains, and remarkable stained glass. Adjacent is the Bishop's Palace and the Cathedral Treasury. Cathedral entry: free. Treasury museum: CHF 6 adults (2026 prices). Hours: Cathedral daily 08:00--19:00; Treasury Monday--Saturday 10:00--12:00 and 14:00--16:00. GPS: 46.8486, 9.5349. Allow 45 minutes to 1 hour.

3. Board the Glacier Express or Bernina Express

Chur is the official starting (or ending) point of two of the world's most famous scenic train journeys. The Glacier Express runs from Chur (or St. Moritz) to Zermatt in approximately 8 hours, crossing 291 bridges and 91 tunnels through the heart of the Swiss Alps. The Bernina Express runs from Chur to Tirano (Italy) in approximately 4 hours, crossing the UNESCO-listed Albula/Bernina railway line, including the famous Landwasser Viaduct. Both depart from Chur station. Reservation required for panoramic cars. Glacier Express panoramic supplement: CHF 49 (2026 prices). Bernina Express supplement: CHF 14. Swiss Travel Pass covers the base fare for both. Book via SwissActivities or directly at the station.

4. Walk the 5'000 years of history trail

The archaeological trail through Chur's Old Town passes key sites spanning 5'000 years. Start at the Rhaetian Museum (Ratisches Museum, CHF 8 adults, 2026 prices), which documents the region's history from prehistoric Bronze Age settlements through Roman Curia Raetorum to the medieval Freistaat (Free State) of the Three Leagues. Continue past Roman excavations at the Marsoel site, through the medieval alleys, up to the cathedral precinct. The trail is self-guided and free (museum entry separate). Allow 2--3 hours with museum.

5. Hike or ride the cable car to Brambruesch (1'600 m)

Brambruesch is Chur's local mountain, accessible by cable car directly from the edge of the Old Town in just 10 minutes. At the top, hiking trails fan out across alpine meadows with views over the Rhine valley and surrounding peaks. In winter, Brambruesch is Chur's local ski area with 20 km of pistes. Cable car round trip: CHF 25 adults (CHF 12.50 with Swiss Travel Pass, 2026 prices). Operating daily in summer (June--October) and winter (December--March). GPS (top station): 46.8326, 9.5186. Getting there: 10-minute walk from Old Town to valley station (Kasernenstrasse).

History & Culture

Chur's claim as Switzerland's oldest city is supported by archaeological evidence of continuous human settlement dating back to approximately 3'000 BC (and seasonal settlement even earlier). The rocky hilltop where the cathedral now stands has been occupied since the Bronze Age, and Roman-era Curia Raetorum (the Roman name for Chur) was an important administrative and military center on the route from Italy over the Alpine passes.

The Bishop of Chur, whose diocese was established around 451 AD, wielded enormous temporal and spiritual power throughout the medieval period. The bishop controlled key Alpine pass routes (Julier, Septimer, Splugen) and effectively ruled the region until the formation of the Three Leagues (Drei Bunde) -- the League of God's House, the Grey League, and the League of the Ten Jurisdictions -- between 1367 and 1436. These three alliances, formed by valley communities seeking independence from feudal lords and bishops, became the Freistaat der Drei Bunde (Free State of the Three Leagues), a confederation that governed itself for centuries and gave the canton its name: Graubunden (Grey Leagues, or Grisons in French/English).

Chur joined the Swiss Confederation in 1803 as the capital of the new Canton of Graubunden, Switzerland's largest canton by area (7'105 km2), covering one-sixth of the country. The canton encompasses 150 valleys, three language regions (German, Romansh, Italian), and some of the most remote Alpine communities in Switzerland.

Today Chur is a vibrant small city that balances its role as an administrative capital with a youthful, creative energy. The car-free Old Town has been revitalized with independent shops, restaurants, and galleries. The Rhaetian Railway (Rhatische Bahn, RhB), headquartered in Chur, connects the city to virtually every valley in Graubunden and operates the UNESCO-listed Albula/Bernina line.

Top Attractions

Chur Old Town (Altstadt)

The car-free Old Town extends from Postplatz in the south to the Obertor (upper gate) and cathedral precinct in the north. It is small enough to walk end-to-end in 10 minutes, but rich enough to explore for hours.

• Key landmarks: Obertor (14th-century gate tower), Arcas Platz (main square with cafes), Martinskirche (St. Martin's Church, 8th-century origins, Reformation-era), Regierungsplatz (government square)
• Entry: Free
• GPS (Arcas Platz): 46.8503, 9.5335
• Guided walking tours: Available from Chur Tourism, CHF 15 per person, Saturdays at 14:00 (May--October)

Chur Cathedral (Kathedrale Mariae Himmelfahrt)

Built 1150--1272, the cathedral is a striking mix of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. The interior highlights include the large late-Gothic altarpiece by Jakob Russ (1492) -- one of the finest in Switzerland -- and traces of Carolingian construction in the crypt.

• Entry: Free (cathedral); CHF 6 (treasury museum, 2026 prices)
• Hours: Cathedral daily 08:00--19:00; Treasury Monday--Saturday 10:00--12:00 and 14:00--16:00
• GPS: 46.8486, 9.5349
• Note: The cathedral precinct (Hof) is a quiet, elevated area overlooking the city, with the Bishop's Palace and a small garden

Rhaetian Museum (Ratisches Museum)

The cantonal history museum, housed in a 17th-century patrician house (Haus Buol), covers the archaeology, culture, and history of Graubunden from prehistoric times to the present.

• Entry: CHF 8 adults (2026 prices)
• Hours: Tuesday--Sunday 10:00--17:00
• Address: Hofstrasse 1, 7000 Chur
• GPS: 46.8489, 9.5343
• Swiss Museum Pass: Free entry
• Allow: 1--1.5 hours

Kunstmuseum Chur (Bundner Kunstmuseum)

The cantonal art museum, expanded with a striking modern extension by Barozzi Veiga architects (opened 2016), houses an important collection of works by Graubunden-born artists including the Giacometti family (Alberto and Augusto) and Giovanni Segantini, alongside international contemporary exhibitions.

• Entry: CHF 12 adults; CHF 8 reduced (2026 prices)
• Hours: Tuesday--Sunday 10:00--17:00, Thursday until 20:00
• Address: Bahnhofstrasse 35, 7000 Chur
• GPS: 46.8525, 9.5306
• Swiss Museum Pass: Free entry
• Highlight: The extension building itself is architecturally notable -- its concrete facade reinterprets local stone textures

Brambruesch (1'600 m)

Chur's local mountain, reached by cable car from the edge of the Old Town, offers hiking in summer and skiing in winter. From the top station, trails lead to alpine viewpoints, the Dreibundenstein (2'160 m, 2-hour hike), and the Feldis ridge walk.

• Cable car round trip: CHF 25 adults (2026 prices)
• Swiss Travel Pass: 50% discount (CHF 12.50)
• Operating hours: 08:00--17:00 (summer), 08:30--16:30 (winter)
• Season: June--October (summer hiking), December--March (skiing)
• Valley station GPS: 46.8414, 9.5239
• Getting there: 10-minute walk from Old Town along Kasernenstrasse

Activities & Experiences

Scenic railway journeys from Chur

Tip from ch.tours: You do not need to take the official Bernina Express panoramic train to enjoy the UNESCO line. Regular Rhaetian Railway trains (without panoramic cars) run the identical route for the standard fare and are included with the Swiss Travel Pass -- no supplement needed. The views are equally spectacular.

Hiking from Chur

Wine in Chur (Bundner Herrschaft)

Chur lies at the southern edge of the Bundner Herrschaft, one of Switzerland's premier wine regions. The Pinot Noir (Blauburgunder) produced in villages like Malans, Jenins, Maienfeld, and Flasch is considered among the finest in Switzerland. Several wineries offer tastings, and the Chur Old Town has wine bars and shops specializing in regional wines. A tasting flight typically costs CHF 15--25.

Christmas market (Christkindlimarkt)

Chur's Christmas market, held in the Old Town from late November to 23 December, transforms the medieval lanes into a festive wonderland with around 60 stalls selling crafts, food, mulled wine (Gluhwein), and local specialties. Opening hours: daily 11:00--20:00.

Getting Around

On foot

Chur's Old Town is compact and car-free. Key distances from the train station:

• Old Town (Postplatz): 5 minutes
• Arcas Platz: 7 minutes
• Cathedral: 12 minutes
• Brambruesch cable car: 15 minutes
• Rhaetian Museum: 12 minutes

By bus

Chur Bus operates a local network covering the wider city area. Single ride: CHF 2.60 (2026 prices). The Swiss Travel Pass covers local buses.

By train (Rhaetian Railway / RhB)

From Chur station, the Rhaetian Railway provides connections deep into Graubunden:

• St. Moritz: 2h (Albula line, UNESCO)
• Davos: 1h 30min
• Arosa: 1h (departing from a separate platform at Chur station)
• Disentis: 1h 20min (start of the Glacier Express route)
• Tirano (Italy): 4h (Bernina Express route)

Where to Eat

Traditional Graubunden cuisine

Cafes and light dining

Budget options

• Coop Restaurant: Self-service, CHF 10--15, near the station
• Weekly market (Saturday): Fresh produce, cheese, and local baked goods at Postplatz
• Bundner Nusstorte: Graubunden's famous nut tart (caramelized walnuts in a pastry shell) available at every bakery, from CHF 5 per slice

Graubunden specialties to try

• Capuns: Rolled chard leaves filled with a mixture of spatzle dough, Bundnerfleisch (air-dried meat), sausage, and herbs, baked in cream. The signature dish of Graubunden
• Pizokel: Graubunden's version of spatzle -- irregularly shaped dumplings served with cheese, butter, and bacon
• Bundnerfleisch: Air-dried beef, sliced paper-thin and served as an appetizer. One of Switzerland's most famous charcuterie products
• Maluns: Grated potatoes slowly roasted in butter until crispy, served with apple puree and mountain cheese. A traditional peasant dish
• Bundner Nusstorte: A rich pastry filled with caramelized walnuts and cream -- the quintessential Graubunden souvenir

Where to Stay

By budget

Where to stay: area guide

• Old Town: Most atmospheric, car-free, immediate access to restaurants, shops, and sights. Best for 1--2 night cultural stays
• Station area: Most convenient for early-morning scenic train departures (Glacier Express leaves at 08:02). Slightly less charming but very practical
• Day trip option: Chur works well as a day trip from Zurich (1h 15min each way)

Day Trips from Chur

Practical Information

Getting to Chur by train (SBB / RhB)

Tip from ch.tours: Sit on the right side of the IC train from Zurich to Chur for views of Lake Zurich and Walensee -- two of the most scenic stretches on the Swiss rail network. The Walensee section (between Ziegelbrucke and Sargans) runs directly along the lakeshore with towering cliffs above.

Swiss Travel Pass in Chur

The Swiss Travel Pass covers:

• Free: All SBB trains to Chur, most RhB trains throughout Graubunden, local Chur buses, Rhaetian Museum and Kunstmuseum entries
• Free: Regular trains on the UNESCO Albula/Bernina line (no supplement needed for non-panoramic cars)
• 50% discount: Brambruesch cable car, some mountain cable cars in the region
• Not included: Glacier Express panoramic supplement (CHF 49), Bernina Express panoramic supplement (CHF 14)

Weather by season

Weather data: MeteoSwiss climate normals for Chur (station 7000)

Emergency & practical numbers

• Emergency (Police/Fire/Ambulance): 112
• Police: 117
• Ambulance: 144
• Tourist Information: Chur Tourismus, Bahnhofstrasse 32, +41 81 252 18 18
• Opening hours: Monday--Friday 09:00--18:00, Saturday 09:00--13:00

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Chur worth visiting?

Yes, Chur is worth visiting both as a destination in its own right and as a gateway to Graubunden. Its car-free Old Town is one of the most appealing in Switzerland, with a 5'000-year history, excellent restaurants serving Bundner cuisine, and a lively local atmosphere. Most visitors are pleasantly surprised to find such a charming small city -- it is far more than just a railway junction.

How many days do you need in Chur?

One full day covers the Old Town, cathedral, and a museum. Two days allow you to add a Brambruesch hike or cable car ride and a day trip to the Rhine Gorge or Arosa. Many visitors use Chur as a one-night stopover before or after a Glacier Express or Bernina Express journey, which is an excellent strategy.

How do you get to Chur from Zurich?

Take a direct IC train from Zurich HB. The journey takes 1 hour 15 minutes, with trains running every 30 minutes. A second-class ticket costs CHF 42 (free with Swiss Travel Pass). No changes needed. Sit on the right side for lake views along Walensee.

What is the best time to visit Chur?

May to October for warm weather, outdoor dining, and hiking. Late November to late December for the atmospheric Christmas market. Chur works year-round as a railway gateway -- the Glacier Express and Bernina Express run in all seasons.

Is the Swiss Travel Pass valid for Chur?

Yes, the Swiss Travel Pass covers all trains to Chur, local buses, most Rhaetian Railway routes in Graubunden, and museum entries. It also covers regular (non-panoramic) trains on the Glacier Express and Bernina Express routes -- only the panoramic car supplements are extra.

Is Chur really the oldest city in Switzerland?

Yes, archaeological evidence shows continuous human settlement on the Chur hilltop (Hof area, where the cathedral now stands) dating to approximately 3'000 BC. Roman-era Curia Raetorum was established as an administrative center, and the Bishop of Chur's diocese dates to around 451 AD. This makes Chur the oldest continuously inhabited city in Switzerland.

Can you visit Chur as a day trip from Zurich?

Yes, Chur is an easy day trip from Zurich. With trains taking just 1 hour 15 minutes each way, departing Zurich at 08:00 gives you arrival by 09:15 and a full day in the Old Town. Last trains back to Zurich run until approximately 22:00. This leaves 8--10 hours for sightseeing, dining, and even a Brambruesch cable car ride.

What trains depart from Chur?

Chur is a major railway junction. SBB intercity trains connect to Zurich, Bern, Basel, and beyond. The Rhaetian Railway (RhB) operates from Chur to St. Moritz (Albula line, UNESCO), Davos, Arosa, Disentis, and ultimately Tirano (Bernina Express). The Glacier Express departs daily from Chur toward Zermatt. Chur is one of the most important railway hubs in Switzerland.

Insider Tips from Locals

1. The Arosa line starts in the middle of the city: Unlike most mountain railways that begin at rural stations, the RhB train to Arosa departs from Chur's main station and immediately climbs through the city streets -- you can look into apartment windows as the train passes through the narrow Schanfigg valley. It is one of the most dramatic urban-to-alpine transitions on the Swiss rail network. The one-hour journey is spectacular and free with the Swiss Travel Pass.

2. Walk to the Hof (cathedral precinct) at sunset: The elevated Hof area around the cathedral offers views over the Old Town rooftops and the Rhine valley. In the evening, when the cafes and shops below are closing, the Hof becomes a peaceful viewpoint bathed in golden light. Few tourists make the short uphill walk.

3. Try Capuns at Bundner Stube: If you eat one Graubunden dish in Chur, make it Capuns. The Bundner Stube at Hotel Stern serves the definitive version. These chard-wrapped spatzle rolls baked in cream are the ultimate Graubunden comfort food and virtually unknown outside the canton.

4. The Rhine Gorge by raft: Instead of hiking the Rhine Gorge (Ruinaulta), raft through it. Guided raft trips depart from Ilanz or Versam and float through the 13-km gorge -- towering white limestone walls up to 400 m high on both sides. Book through SwissActivities or local operators. Half-day trips from approximately CHF 90.

5. Chur's wine is a hidden gem: The Bundner Herrschaft wine region (20 min north of Chur by train) produces outstanding Pinot Noir that rivals Burgundy. Visit Maienfeld, Malans, or Jenins for winery tastings. Many Chur restaurants feature Herrschaft wines -- ask for a local recommendation rather than ordering from the international list.

6. Take the regular train, not the panoramic, to save money: The Glacier Express and Bernina Express panoramic supplements cost CHF 49 and CHF 14 respectively. Regular Rhaetian Railway trains cover the identical routes for the base fare only (free with Swiss Travel Pass). The windows are slightly smaller but the scenery is identical. Locals always take the regular train.

7. Saturday morning at Postplatz: The weekly market at Postplatz (Saturday 07:30--12:00) is where locals stock up on regional cheese, sausages, bread, and produce. Grab a Bundner Nusstorte slice and a coffee at one of the surrounding cafes -- this is Chur at its most authentic.

8. The cathedral treasury is small but extraordinary: The Chur Cathedral Treasury, tucked into the cathedral precinct, contains Carolingian and medieval religious objects of exceptional quality. Entry is just CHF 6 and the collection takes 30 minutes to see. It is often overlooked but rewards close attention.

Source: ch.tours | Last updated: March 2026 | Data from MySwitzerland.com, SBB (sbb.ch), Rhatische Bahn (rhb.ch), MeteoSwiss, Chur Tourismus (churtourismus.ch), Canton of Graubunden (gr.ch)