Duration: Approximately 7 to 8 hours of narrated hiking Distance: 15.5 km (one way) Elevation Gain: 1,540 m ascent / 1,370 m descent Starting Elevation: 1,408 m (Griesalp) High Point: 2,778 m (Hohtuerli Pass) Ending Elevation: 1,176 m (Kandersteg) Difficulty: T3-T4 (demanding mountain hiking, steep terrain, possible snow) Best Season: July to September GPS Start: 46.5510N, 7.7435E (Griesalp) GPS Hohtuerli: 46.5010N, 7.7190E GPS End: 46.4950N, 7.6750E (Kandersteg)
Introduction
Welcome to one of the most iconic stages of the Via Alpina, the long-distance trail that crosses the entire Alpine arc from Trieste to Monaco. Today's stage, from Griesalp to Kandersteg over the Hohtuerli Pass, is widely considered one of the finest single-day mountain crossings in Switzerland.
This is a serious mountain day. The route gains 1,540 metres from Griesalp to the Hohtuerli at 2,778 metres, then descends 1,370 metres to Kandersteg. The total distance is 15.5 kilometres, and you should allow seven to eight hours, including rest stops. The climb to the pass is steep and sustained, and the upper sections may have snow into late July. The descent from the pass, past the Blueemlisalp hut and the Oeschinensee, is steep and rocky.
Griesalp holds a distinction worth noting: the road leading here from Kiental has a maximum gradient of 28 percent, making it the steepest postal bus route in Europe. The bright yellow PostBus that brought you here is a legend of Swiss engineering and driving skill.
Essential equipment: sturdy mountain boots, trekking poles, at least two litres of water, food for a full day, warm layers, waterproofs, sun protection, and a headlamp. Check conditions at the Griesalp hotel before departing, especially regarding snow on the pass. If snow is present, an ice axe and the knowledge to use it are advisable.
The Via Alpina itself is a remarkable long-distance trail network spanning the entire Alpine arc across eight countries, from Trieste in Italy to Monaco on the Mediterranean coast. The Swiss section, which this stage belongs to, crosses 14 passes and traverses some of the finest mountain scenery in the country. The Griesalp to Kandersteg stage is widely regarded as one of the crown jewels of the entire route.
The trail begins behind the Hotel Griesalp. Follow signs for "Hohtuerli" and "Blueemlisalp."
Waypoint 1: Griesalp (1,408 m)
GPS: 46.5510N, 7.7435E
Griesalp sits at the head of the Kiental, one of the most remote valleys in the Bernese Oberland. The valley has been inhabited for centuries by farming families who eked a living from the steep, forested slopes and the narrow strip of flat land along the Kien stream.
The Kiental was historically so remote that it developed a strong sense of independence. The valley's residents were known for their self-reliance and their suspicion of outside authority, traits common to many Swiss mountain communities. Even today, Griesalp feels like a place apart, surrounded by mountains on three sides with only a single, precipitous road connecting it to the outside world.
The vegetation here is lush. The combination of high rainfall, sheltered aspect, and fertile glacial soil creates ideal growing conditions for a mixed forest of spruce, beech, maple, and ash. The understory is rich with ferns, wild raspberry, and foxglove. In spring, the forest floor is carpeted with wood anemone, primrose, and the delicate white bells of lily of the valley.
The trail begins with a gentle climb through this forest, following the Gamchi stream upward. Enjoy the shade while it lasts; the upper sections of the climb are fully exposed.
Next waypoint: 1.5 km, approximately 30 minutes.
Waypoint 2: The Gamchi Alp (1,670 m)
GPS: 46.5440N, 7.7410E
As you gain elevation, the forest thins and the valley opens up. You can now see the headwall of the valley ahead, a semicircular wall of rock and ice rising over 1,000 metres to the Hohtuerli Pass. The Blueemlisalp glacier gleams white on the peaks above. It is a daunting sight, and you may wonder how a hiking trail can possibly reach the top of that wall. Trust the trail; it finds a way.
The Gamchi Alp is a traditional summer grazing area, and you may encounter cattle or goats. The small wooden huts here are Alp huts, used by the herders during the summer grazing season. The system is ancient and still economically important. The cheese produced on alps like Gamchi, made from the rich milk of cows grazing on wildflower meadows, commands premium prices and has a flavour that no factory-produced cheese can match.
The trail steepens significantly above the alp. The next section gains about 500 metres in 2 kilometres, a sustained and demanding climb. Pace yourself. Drink water regularly and take short rests if needed. The key to a long mountain day is to maintain a pace you can sustain for hours, not to sprint the uphills.
Next waypoint: 2.0 km, approximately 60 minutes.
Waypoint 3: The Rock Step (2,200 m)
GPS: 46.5320N, 7.7350E
You have now climbed above the treeline and into a landscape of rock, scree, and sparse alpine vegetation. The trail traverses a series of rocky steps, gaining elevation in stages. Fixed chains and metal staples assist on the steepest sections.
This terrain is the domain of the chamois and the ibex. The Alpine ibex, with its magnificent curved horns, was reintroduced to the Blueemlisalp area in the 1960s, and a healthy population now inhabits the cliffs above you. Males can weigh over 100 kilograms and carry horns up to a metre long. Despite their bulk, they move with astonishing grace on the steepest rock faces, their cloven hooves providing remarkable grip on even the smallest ledges.
The rock around you is part of the Blueemlisalp limestone nappe, a geological unit of Cretaceous limestone that was thrust northward during the Alpine collision. The limestone is rich in marine fossils, evidence of the ancient Tethys Sea that once covered this area. As you climb, you are literally ascending through geological time, from younger rocks at the base to older rocks near the pass.
Look back down the valley for a moment. The view has opened dramatically. The Kiental stretches away to the north, its green floor a narrow ribbon between dark forested walls. Beyond the valley, the lower hills of the Emmental and the distant Jura Mountains form the horizon.
Next waypoint: 1.5 km, approximately 50 minutes.
Waypoint 4: The Snow Fields (2,500 m)
GPS: 46.5150N, 7.7260E
In early summer, permanent snow fields often cover the trail in this section. Even in August, patches of old snow may linger in shaded gullies. If snow is present, tread carefully. Compressed, icy snow on a steep slope is one of the most dangerous conditions in mountain walking. If the surface is hard and icy, and you do not have an ice axe and the skills to arrest a slip, consider turning back.
If the snow is soft and well-trodden, following the footprints of previous hikers, the passage is usually manageable with care. Step firmly and kick small platforms in the snow for your feet. Use trekking poles for balance. The angle can be steep, and the consequence of a slide would be serious.
The Blueemlisalp glacier is now directly above you. You can see its ice cliffs, blue-white walls of compacted snow and ice, calving occasional blocks that crash onto the rocks below. The glacier has retreated significantly in recent decades, and the terrain you are crossing may have been covered by ice within living memory.
The altitude is making itself felt now. At 2,500 metres, you are breathing air with about 73 percent of the oxygen available at sea level. If you feel lightheaded or unusually fatigued, slow your pace and breathe deeply. Drink water and eat something high in carbohydrates. These symptoms are normal at altitude and usually pass with rest.
Next waypoint: 1.0 km, approximately 40 minutes.
Waypoint 5: Hohtuerli Pass (2,778 m)
GPS: 46.5010N, 7.7190E
You are standing on the Hohtuerli Pass, 2,778 metres above sea level. This is the highest point of the hike and one of the great mountain viewpoints of the Bernese Oberland.
Turn around and look back the way you came. The Kiental drops away below you, a deep, green trough framed by mountain walls. The Niesen, the perfect pyramid above Lake Thun, is visible to the north. On clear days, you can see as far as the Jura Mountains.
Now turn and face south. Before you lies a very different landscape. The Oeschinensee, that turquoise jewel of a lake, sits in its cirque of grey limestone walls, 1,200 metres below. The descent to the lake is dramatic: a steep, rocky path zigzagging down the headwall, with the lake growing larger with each switchback.
The Blueemlisalp massif rises to the west, its glaciated summit at 3,661 metres. The Blueemlisalp Hut, an SAC mountain hut at 2,840 metres, is visible on a rocky platform just above the pass. If you need a rest or refreshment, the hut is a short detour and serves meals and drinks during the summer season.
Rest well at the pass before beginning the long descent. Eat something substantial and refill water if you can. The descent to Kandersteg is steep, and tired legs on rocky terrain require extra concentration.
Next waypoint: 2.0 km, approximately 50 minutes.
Waypoint 6: The Headwall Descent (2,400 m)
GPS: 46.4998N, 7.7200E
The descent from the Hohtuerli is one of the steepest on any major hiking trail in Switzerland. The path drops 400 metres in the first kilometre, zigzagging down a rock and scree slope with chains for support in the most exposed sections.
Take your time. Downhill on steep, loose rock is harder on the body than climbing. Each step jars the knees and requires precise foot placement. Lean slightly into the slope, keep your weight over your feet, and use trekking poles to reduce the impact on your joints.
As you descend, the Oeschinensee grows in your field of vision. The lake's extraordinary colour, that vivid turquoise, becomes more intense as you get closer. The waterfalls cascading down the cliffs on the far side of the lake are now visible, and you can hear their roar even from this distance.
The geology of the headwall is spectacular. You are descending through tilted beds of Cretaceous limestone, the layers clearly visible as light and dark bands running across the cliff face. These rocks are roughly 100 million years old and were formed from the accumulated shells of marine organisms on a warm, shallow seabed. The fossils within them tell the story of a tropical ocean that once covered this area, a world utterly different from the glaciated Alpine landscape of today.
Next waypoint: 2.0 km, approximately 45 minutes.
Waypoint 7: Oeschinensee Shore (1,578 m)
GPS: 46.5020N, 7.7330E
You have reached the shore of the Oeschinensee. After the rigours of the pass crossing, this lakeside paradise feels like a reward from the mountain itself.
The lake's turquoise water, the towering cliffs, and the cascading waterfalls create a scene of almost surreal beauty. Find a spot on the grassy shore, remove your boots, and let your feet rest. If you are brave enough, a dip in the lake, at roughly 10 to 14 degrees Celsius in summer, will invigorate muscles that are protesting the day's work.
The Oeschinensee is fed primarily by glacial meltwater from the Blueemlisalp and Oeschinenhorn glaciers. The lake has no surface outlet; its water seeps through the fractured limestone bedrock and emerges as springs in Kandersteg below. This underground drainage is characteristic of karst landscapes, where soluble rock is gradually dissolved by slightly acidic groundwater, creating an invisible plumbing system beneath the surface.
A restaurant at the eastern end of the lake serves meals and drinks. This is your last opportunity for commercial refreshment before Kandersteg.
Take your time at the Oeschinensee. After the physical intensity of the pass crossing, you have earned a rest in this extraordinary setting. The lake was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007 as part of the Jungfrau-Aletsch region, recognising its outstanding natural beauty and geological significance. The cirque of peaks surrounding the lake, the Blueemlisalp, Oeschinenhorn, Fruendenhorn, and Doldenhorn, forms one of the most complete alpine amphitheatres in the Alps, and the lake's turquoise water, set against the grey limestone and white ice, creates a colour palette that shifts with every change of light.
The rowing boats available at the lake are worth considering if your legs need a rest. Drifting on the still water, looking up at the cliffs and waterfalls, offers a perspective that the shore cannot match.
Next waypoint: 3.0 km, approximately 50 minutes.
Waypoint 8: The Forest Descent to Kandersteg (1,300 m)
GPS: 46.4960N, 7.7100E
From the Oeschinensee, the trail descends through forest toward Kandersteg. The path is well-maintained, with some steep sections, and passes through a beautiful mixed forest of spruce, larch, and beech.
After the wild, high-altitude terrain of the morning, this forest feels gentle and civilised. The transition from the exposed, rocky world of the Hohtuerli to this sheltered woodland is one of the most satisfying aspects of the day's walk. The temperature is warmer, the air more humid, and the sounds shift from the roar of wind and waterfall to the intimate murmur of birdsong and rustling leaves. The birdsong is varied and constant: chaffinches, robins, blackbirds, and the distinctive yodelling call of the mistle thrush create a chorus that accompanies your descent.
As you approach Kandersteg, you begin to see the traditional chalets and barns of the Bernese Oberland. These handsome wooden buildings, with their wide, overhanging roofs and carved balconies, are characteristic of the region. Many date back several hundred years, their dark, weathered timber bearing inscriptions recording the names of the builders and the date of construction. In Kandersteg, inscriptions from the 1700s are common.
Next waypoint: 2.0 km, approximately 30 minutes.
Waypoint 9: Kandersteg (1,176 m)
GPS: 46.4950N, 7.6750E
Welcome to Kandersteg, one of the great mountain villages of the Bernese Oberland. You have completed the Griesalp to Kandersteg crossing over the Hohtuerli Pass.
Closing
You have accomplished one of the classic Alpine day crossings. Fifteen and a half kilometres, 1,540 metres of ascent, a 2,778-metre pass, and a journey from one watershed to the next. The view from the Hohtuerli, with the turquoise Oeschinensee set against the white peaks of the Blueemlisalp, is one that stays in the memory for a lifetime.
From Kandersteg, trains run regularly to Spiez, Interlaken, and Bern via the Loetschberg line. The journey to Interlaken takes about an hour and is a scenic ride through the Kander Valley with views of Lake Thun.
This stage of the Via Alpina represents the essence of what makes multi-day hiking in the Swiss Alps so compelling: the physical challenge, the wild beauty, the sense of crossing a true mountain barrier, and the satisfaction of arriving in a new valley under your own power.
Thank you for hiking with ch.tours. Rest well tonight; your body has earned it. Safe travels.