Introduction
Welcome to Lavaux, where one of the world's great wine landscapes cascades down the sun-drenched slopes above Lake Geneva in a cascade of stone-walled terraces that have been cultivated for nine centuries. This UNESCO World Heritage Site stretches for about fifteen kilometres along the northern shore of the lake between Lausanne and Vevey, and its terraced vineyards represent one of the finest examples of human interaction with landscape anywhere in Europe.
This walk follows the vineyard trail from the wine village of Cully to Rivaz, traversing the heart of the Lavaux through a landscape of stone walls, vine-covered terraces, and medieval wine villages. The walk is moderate in difficulty, with some steep sections as the trail winds up and down between the terraces. The rewards are immense: panoramic views across Lake Geneva to the French and Savoy Alps, intimate encounters with a winemaking tradition that has barely changed in centuries, and the opportunity to taste the Chasselas wines that are Lavaux's unique contribution to the world of wine.
Stop 1: Cully Station and Village — 46.4888, 6.7300
Cully is one of the wine villages of Lavaux, a compact settlement of stone houses clustered around a small harbour on the lake. The village has a long musical tradition and hosts the Cully Jazz Festival each spring, one of the most respected jazz events in Switzerland.
The vineyards begin immediately above the village, climbing the steep slope in a series of stone-walled terraces that extend to the road and railway line at the top of the slope. The scale of the terracing is impressive: there are approximately 400 kilometres of stone walls in Lavaux, enough to stretch from Geneva to Zurich and back, all built by hand over centuries.
The terracing was begun by Cistercian monks in the twelfth century. The monks of the nearby abbeys of Montheron and Hautcret recognised the potential of these south-facing slopes above the lake and began the laborious process of clearing forest, building walls, and planting vines. The work was done by hand, stone by stone, creating the narrow horizontal platforms on which vines could be grown on what would otherwise be impossibly steep terrain.
Walk up through the village and join the vineyard trail that leads east toward Rivaz.
Stop 2: First Terrace Viewpoint — 46.4870, 6.7330
As you climb into the vineyards above Cully, the first panoramic view opens up. Lake Geneva stretches before you, its surface reflecting the sky in shades of blue, silver, and grey. The French Alps form the southern horizon, and on clear days the snow-covered peaks of the Dents du Midi and the Chablais are clearly visible. To the southwest, the distant white summit of Mont Blanc sometimes appears above the lower peaks.
The vineyards around you are planted almost exclusively with Chasselas, a white grape variety that is Lavaux's signature wine. Chasselas is an unusual grape: it produces wines that are subtle, delicate, and expressive of their terroir rather than bold, aromatic, or immediately attention-grabbing. The best Lavaux Chasselas are among the most terroir-driven wines in the world, their flavour and character changing dramatically from one vineyard to the next depending on the soil, aspect, and altitude of the terrace.
The three sources of warmth that make viticulture possible at this latitude (roughly 46.5 degrees north, the same as Montreal or the Aral Sea) are: direct sunlight on the south-facing slopes; reflected light from the lake surface, which bounces warmth back onto the vines; and stored heat from the stone terrace walls, which absorb solar energy during the day and release it at night. This triple exposure creates a microclimate on the terraces that is significantly warmer than the surrounding region, extending the growing season and ripening the grapes to full maturity.
Stop 3: Epesses Village — 46.4830, 6.7380
The trail descends briefly to pass through Epesses, one of the most charming wine villages in Lavaux. The narrow streets are lined with stone houses whose ground floors contain wine cellars, or caves, that have been in use since the medieval period.
Epesses is the heart of the Calamin appellation, one of the most prestigious vineyard sites in Lavaux. Calamin is a grand cru, a designation reserved for vineyards of exceptional quality, and the wines produced here are considered among the finest Chasselas in Switzerland. The soil is a mix of limestone and clay, with a high proportion of slate and marl that give the wines a distinctive mineral character.
The wine cellars of Epesses are open for tasting, and stopping at one of them is an essential part of the Lavaux experience. The cellars are typically vaulted stone rooms at a constant cool temperature, lined with barrels and bottles. The winemakers are often present and happy to pour samples and explain the characteristics of their wines.
Stop 4: Dezaley Vineyard — 46.4810, 6.7410
Continuing east, you enter the Dezaley, the most famous vineyard in Lavaux and one of the most prestigious in Switzerland. The Dezaley is a steep, south-facing amphitheatre of terraces that catch the full force of the sun and the reflected light from the lake below.
The name Dezaley may derive from a pre-Roman word meaning cleared land, a reference to the forest clearance that preceded the planting of vines. The vineyard has been cultivated since the twelfth century, and the vines grown here have always been considered the finest in the region. In the eighteenth century, Dezaley wines were served at the courts of Europe, and they remain among the most expensive Swiss wines today.
The soil of the Dezaley is a complex mix of moraine deposits (glacial debris from the ice ages), weathered limestone, and clay. This geological diversity, combined with the favourable exposition and the moderating influence of the lake, creates growing conditions that bring out the full potential of the Chasselas grape.
Walking through the Dezaley, notice the extreme steepness of the terraces. Some sections have a gradient of over 60 per cent, and all work in the vineyard must be done by hand, as machines cannot operate on such steep terrain. The annual labour of pruning, tying, spraying, and harvesting these vines is enormous, and the low yields (the steep, well-drained soil limits vine vigour) contribute to the high cost of the wines.
Stop 5: Tour de Marsens — 46.4800, 6.7430
The medieval Tower of Marsens stands amid the vineyards as a reminder of the feudal history of Lavaux. This stone tower, dating from the thirteenth century, was part of a network of watchtowers and signal stations that guarded the lakeside territory.
The history of Lavaux is a history of competing powers. The Bishops of Lausanne, the monks of the Cistercian abbeys, the local nobility, and the city of Lausanne all claimed rights over the vineyards and the revenues they generated. Wine was wealth in medieval Switzerland, and the Lavaux vineyards were a prize worth fighting for.
The monks were the greatest viticulturalists. Their systematic approach to vine cultivation, their careful selection of planting sites, and their meticulous record-keeping established the foundations on which Lavaux's reputation was built. When the monasteries were dissolved during the Bernese Reformation of the sixteenth century, the vineyards passed to the city of Bern and to private owners, but the traditions the monks had established continued.
Stop 6: Terrace Wall Construction — 46.4780, 6.7450
Pause at a section where the terrace walls are clearly visible and examine their construction. The walls are built of local stone, primarily limestone and sandstone, without mortar. The stones are selected and fitted by hand, each one chosen for its size and shape to create a stable, free-draining structure.
The construction of a terrace wall requires considerable skill. The wall must be slightly battered (leaning into the hillside) to resist the weight of the soil behind it. The foundation must be deep enough to prevent undermining by water. And the spaces between the stones must be large enough to allow water to drain through the wall but small enough to retain the soil behind it.
The walls also serve an ecological function. The spaces between the stones provide habitat for lizards, snakes, insects, and small mammals, creating a network of micro-habitats that supports a diverse community of organisms. In spring, the walls are often decorated with wildflowers that grow in the crevices, adding colour to the grey stone.
Stop 7: Lake Viewpoint and Geology — 46.4760, 6.7465
At a high point on the trail, a bench offers a perfect spot to rest and contemplate the view. Lake Geneva lies below, its surface a mirror of shifting colour. The French shore is visible as a dark line, and the Alps rise behind it in a crescendo of peaks.
The geological story of this landscape is written in the terraces themselves. The soil is a mix of glacial deposits and weathered bedrock, reflecting the complex geological history of the region. During the last Ice Age, the Rhone Glacier extended well beyond the current limits of the lake, and the moraines it deposited form the foundation of many of the vineyard terraces.
The UNESCO inscription of Lavaux in 2007 recognised not only the beauty of the landscape but its cultural significance as a testimony to the continuous interaction between people and their environment over nearly a millennium. The terraces are a living monument to the labour, skill, and determination of the generations of vignerons who have maintained them.
Stop 8: Rivaz Village — 46.4740, 6.7480
The walk ends in Rivaz, a small wine village perched above the lake. Rivaz is home to the Lavaux Vinorama, a wine museum and tasting centre that offers an introduction to the wines of the region and provides the opportunity to sample wines from dozens of local producers.
The village church, perched on a promontory above the lake, offers a final panoramic view that encompasses the full sweep of Lavaux: the terraced slopes climbing from the lake to the ridge above, the medieval towers marking the boundaries of the old estates, and the vine-covered hillsides that produce one of Switzerland's most distinctive and admired wines.
Conclusion
Lavaux is a landscape where nature and culture are inseparable. The terraces are neither natural nor artificial but a collaboration between human effort and geological inheritance that has produced something of extraordinary beauty and productivity. Walking through Lavaux with a glass of Chasselas in hand, you taste the landscape itself: the sun, the stone, the water, and nine centuries of accumulated skill and tradition.
Practical Information
- Best Time: September and October for the grape harvest (vendanges) and golden autumn light. Spring for wildflowers on the terrace walls. Summer for lake swimming.
- Wear: Hiking shoes with good grip. The trails are steep and can be slippery when wet. Sun protection.
- Bring: A wine glass (some cellars expect visitors to have their own). Water, as the sun on the terraces is intense. A camera.
- Nearby Food: The wine villages have excellent restaurants. Try the filets de perche and a glass of local Chasselas. The caves (cellars) in Epesses and Rivaz offer tastings.
- Getting There: Train to Cully (15 min from Lausanne). Return from Rivaz by train (10 min to Vevey, 25 min to Lausanne).